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Facade for kitchen furniture according to new technology

In the manufacture of wooden furniture by oneself, the most difficult element is the facade. It is too expensive to use third-party services to solve this problem. There are, however, pieces of furniture made of wood that can do without wooden facades, for example, wardrobes. But still, it is better to have a tool and appropriate equipment that allows you to solve this problem if necessary.

A new amateur technology for making a facade for a kitchen

The carpentry part of making high-quality furniture with your own hands usually does not cause any problems. But decoration in domestic conditions can be a difficult task.

At large enterprises, one of the finishing options is a painting chamber, but in domestic conditions, such technologies cannot be used, because a powerful damper is needed here, and even in this case, one cannot hide from the reproaches of the neighbors.

But you can work with water-based materials that you apply with a roller in an apartment. The main thing here is to buy high-quality, although perhaps not cheap, material.

In order to get such a high-quality furniture facade for the kitchen, it is best to paint each part separately first, and then glue the facade from these parts.

To assemble a facade from completely finished blocks, there must be a chamfer in the touching surfaces. For this, you need to have a milling cutter of the required profile. You may not find such a cutter right away, but you can replace this tool with another one, for example, purchase a set of two cutters for a profile and a counter profile with a reduced groove. After processing the parts, they can be additionally driven on a lightweight milling table with a radius cutter R2.

Blanks for tying the future facade can be bars, which are cut from a furniture board (birch or pine) and make larger parts. Dimensions of the blanks: width 62 mm (after removing the allowance – 60 mm), thickness – 18-20 mm.

The blanks are cut according to the dimensions, the transverse parts are processed on the machine to form the counter-profile. The outer edges of longitudinal bars are also processed across, but already on a separate table with a milling machine.

Now they additionally remove the chamfer R2 in all parts on another milling table with the least powerful milling cutter.

The next stage is longitudinal milling in two steps – to obtain a profile inside and an edge outside, after which chamfers are removed in a circle. In addition, you need to plan the edges a little with a planer before that.

A profile is made on the milling table.

On the opposite face, the outer edge of the facade is milled, as a result of which almost finished binding bars are obtained.

In conclusion, the R2 radius is milled on the longitudinal surfaces again on the table. As a result, there are no sharp edges on the bars, everything is smooth and smooth. After milling, grinding works are carried out.

The places of gluing are covered with masking tape and the parts are covered with paint or varnish, because there should be no paint and varnish in the places where the glue will be.

What’s new

Since the groove is now shallow, Ø 6 mm studs are added in the corners to strengthen the structure.

Ready-made vertical bars are drilled in the planned places, spikes are glued. Such reinforcement applies only to ordinary hinged doors, small facades and drawers can be glued without studs.


The gluing of facades from fully processed parts differs only in increased requirements for neatness in performing operations. Although there is not so much glue for this job. That is, you need to buy the best glue, while paying attention to the expiration date. For example, there is a quality Titebond 3 glue.

For this method of manufacturing facades, you will need an additional table that can be made from an old cabinet and an inexpensive milling machine. You also need to buy an R2 milling cutter, it is also inexpensive.

On a table with a radius cutter, work goes quickly, but there is no need to rush.

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